The Breakfast Battle Royale: Vivian's vs. Square One

We all know breakfast is the most important meal of the day and, here in LA, it’s a veritable pastime. There are so many choices, so many options, how is an Angeleno to know where to tuck into a plate of French toast? Who reigns supreme in the Battle Royale of (Turkey)Bacon and Eggs? I offer you two contenders…In the Breakfast Death Match of Deliciousness we have one ol’ faithful and one spry up n’ comer; Vivian’s in Studio City and Square One in Los Feliz are going head to head with the two best breakfast dishes I’ve found in Los Angeles thus far.

In this corner: Vivian’s, a small, family run restaurant in a converted house on Ventura Boulevard. Because this is LA, the family that runs it happens to include the chick who starred in “King Of Queens” but don’t be blinded by the klieg lights, it’s quaint, homey and wonderful. They also happen to make the best Banana Pancakes you’ll ever eat.

In the other corner: Square One, a cozy brunch beacon stashed behind the big, scary, sanitarium looking Scientology building on Fountain and L. Ron Hubbard (creeeeepy!) where you will find the greatest Eggs Benedict ever to dazzle your taste buds.

Both are the kinds of places you could easily drive by a million times and never notice. Both offer sweet, comfortable patios, charming service, and a vast array of other delicious options. But the thing that makes them shine is their signature dish. It is the siren song that pulls you from your slumber on a weekend and screams, “GET YOUR ASS UP!!! NO ONE CARES THAT IT’S SUNDAY! IT’S TIME TO EAT!”

At Vivian’s, you are presented with a plate…you think. The truth is, you can barely see your plate because it’s been overtaken by the Banana Pancake Heaven awaiting you. The pancakes are perfectly golden, fluffy and light. Caramelized on the bottom of each cake are ripe, succulent rounds of banana. Not chunks. Not something mushed up to give “banana flavor”. Bananas that were sliced off the way Chiquita herself assigned and put to a hot griddle to allow the natural sugars to dance and shimmy their way to warm, sweet perfection. There’s also butter which is meant to be slathered across each plate sized cake; rich and creamy and slightly salty. And then comes the syrup. Normally, I’m a Vermont Maple Girl. But this is Vivian’s and they keep it riggity-real with the Log Cabin and, I gotta tell ya, I was suspicious at first but it works!!! Ohhh, how it works! Plus, they bring you a full squeeze bottle and no one looks twice as you decorate each new bite with a little more. The result is a sweet, salty, buttery, syrupy, banana-y party in your mouth.

Square One takes a slightly higher flatulent route (when you order their brioche French toast, amazing but a different story for a different day, you get Vermont maple syrup. It’s all just a style choice.) Here we meet Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict. Let’s start at the bottom and work our way up, shall we? Served next to a bed of farm fresh mixed greens, lightly dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette, are two potato pancakes. Each is hot, crispy and fresh out of the oil filled with crunch and salted just right. Nestled atop the potato pancakes is house cured smoked salmon. I could write an entire sonnet to this smoked salmon. It’s almost like sashimi, so shockingly fresh and buttery you can cut it with a spoon. It would make Zabar blush with shame. It’s simply the greatest smoked salmon you will ever have. Happily resting above the salmon are two poached eggs that were pulled from their water bath at the precise moment to maintain egg white doneness (is there anything grosser than an undercooked egg white jiggling on your plate?) and still get the right yolk gush. The hollandaise adorning the eggs is divine and rich but, the piece de resistance, is the ground red pepper on top that gives the whole dish fire, bite, and sizzle. The ensuing result is a crispy, succulent, salty, creamy, spicy, yolky, party in your mouth.

So which is the victor? For me to only name one would be like Sophie’s Choice and I could never be so cruel. Mama loves both her babies. So I leave the final answer to you, dear reader. Make a weekend of it and let me know. Until then, the Battle rages on.

Vivian’s Millenium Cafe

10968 Ventura Blvd (between Vineland and Riverton Ave)

Studio City, CA 91604

Mon-Sat:7am-3:30pm

Sun:8am-3pm

Square One

4854 Fountain Ave (between Edgemont and L. Ron Hubbard)
Los Angeles, CA 90029

Mon-Sun 8am-4pm

I love Huevos Rancheros. The best ones I’ve ever had were at the Hollywood Hills Coffee Shop (now, sadly, in Restaurant Heaven). Here’s my version and an ode to one of the former contenders in the Breakfast Battle Royale.

Huevos Rancheros

Yeilds 4 servings

Ingredients-

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 (6 inch) corn tortillas

1 cup refried beans with green chilies

2 tablespoon butter

4 eggs

1 cup shredded Sharp Cheddar cheese

8 slices bacon (turkey, soy or regular), cooked and crumbled

1 cup salsa (I looove the new smoked salsa at Trader Joe’s!)

1 Avocado, sliced

1. Heat oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Fry tortillas one at a time until firm, but not crisp. Place on paper towels to drain any excess grease.

2. Meanwhile, combine the refried beans and one tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan or microwave-safe dish. Cover, and cook until heated through.
3. Heat remaining butter in a skillet and fry eggs to desired consistency.
4. Place fried tortillas onto serving plates. Spread a layer of beans on them. Top with a fried egg, crumbled bacon, salsa. and sliced avocado.
5. If you prefer your cheese a bit more melted, place under a broiler on high for 45 seconds-1 minute, or until cheese is hot and bubbling.
6. Enjoy!