Tuesday, January 8, 2008

The Reason I Breathe...Pizzeria Mozza










There are very few things in life that are worth a wait. We live at the speed of NOW and our virtuous patience has been left in the dust. But there are certain things that demand a holding pattern. Pizzeria Mozza is one of them. After several months of begging for a table and being told they could only accommodate me before 4pm or after 11pm, I finally got a table at 9:30pm! Joy of joys! I felt like A Somebody. But then the cynicism sunk it. “It can’t be that good”, I told myself, rationalizing how anyplace so perpetually thronged must be terrible. Those lemmings were just there hoping to catch a glimpse of Jake Gyllenhaal, right?

WRONG!!!!

It’s amazing!!!! It’s deliriously, spectacularly, irrepressibly phenomenal. Yes, I’m gonna gush! Because you have to! It’s THAT GOOD!!!

Starting with the Fried Squash Blossoms filled with ricotta cheese. Simple, classic, perfectly fried to an airiness previously unknown, the blossoms burst with warm, melted ricotta and dazzle with a light crunch.

The Rucola, funghi and Piave Salad arrived next. Arugula, sharp and peppery, sliced mushrooms, meaty and soothing, and long thin shavings of Piave, a sharp and salty aged sheep’s milk cheese, all tossed in a light lemon vinaigrette offered the perfect palate cleanser.

Then came the Spicy Shrimp with Melon and Mint. Serendipity thy name is this dish! Sweet, golden chunks of cantaloupe cuddled up with fat, meaty perfectly prepared prawns that were sliced in half. Red jalapeno and bright shards of mint flecked the white and pink flesh of the prawns and glowing melon. Tossed together in a spicy vinaigrette that brought punch and tang, this is perhaps the most divinely balanced dish ever created. I would enlist everyone reading this to go simply for that single moment, that first bite but let us not forget what we came for: Pizza.

First came the Bianca: four white cheese melted across the Mozza signature dough that had the slightest hint of sourdough and the crispness of their wood burning oven that is constantly stoked. Fried sage leaves decorated the top offering depth beyond the melted goodness awaiting.

Next was the Funghi misti with sliced mushrooms, fontina, taleggio & thyme. For a moment, I felt like I was in Hansel and Gretel but instead of eating the Witch’s Candy and Gingerbread House, I was feasting on all the greatest gifts the forest had to offer. It was woodsy and rustic and delectable.

For the piece de resistance they trotted out the Gorgonzola dolce, fingerling potatoes, radicchio and rosemary pizza. Rich and vibrant, moving from the slight bitter bite of radicchio to the buttery smoothness of the roasted fingerling, I have never had a greater pizza experience then when that first bite slid across my taste buds. This is the kind of pizza that would have started wars in ancient times. This is the pizza that launched a thousand ships.

As I slunk off into the LA night, leaving my new found love behind, I wept a little. They were tears of joy mixed with the knowledge that it might be months until I can get another reservation. And then I remembered the 11pm openings. I feel a late night rendezvous in my future. And Mr. Batali, I never should have doubted you. I bow before the genius that is Mozza! Nothing has ever been so worth the wait.

Pizzeria Mozza

641 N Highland Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90019

323.297.0101

www.mozza-la.com

Mon-Sun: 12pm-12am

I’m a little intimidated to supply a recipe but here goes…

I believe that if you use the best available ingredients, this will get you somewhat near the Spicy Shrimp and Melon experience I had so that if the $8 price or the months long wait deter you, you can still enjoy my version of the best thing I’ve eaten in a long time.

Spicy Shrimp with Melon and Mint

Serves two as an appetizer

12 large prawns, peeled and deveined

1 cup ripe cantaloupe, cubed

2 red jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced

½ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

2 Tablespoons Olive Oil

Salt to taste

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
  2. Add prawns and cook for 3-5 minutes depending on their size.
  3. Shock prawns in an ice bath to stop the cooking.
  4. Slice the prawns in half lengthwise.
  5. Combine all other ingredients and toss to combine.
  6. Allow to macerate for 30 mins-1 hour.
  7. Enjoy!

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